Climbing duel
Crux Masters — points table
Raw grade value, partial-progress credit, falls penalties, and the endurance bonus ladder.
score nerdery
This is the reference table for the Crux Cup scoring system. Topped routes get full value, but unfinished hard tries still earn partial credit through progress bands before the falls penalty bites.
Formula
- Base points depend on UIAA grade and rise nonlinearly.
- Progress credit: topped = 100%, 90%+ = 85%, 75–89% = 65%, 50–74% = 40%, 25–49% = 20%, <25% = 0%.
- Falls penalty:
points = round(base × progress / (1 + 0.35 × falls)) - Endurance bonus: at 10 topped routes = 1× average topped-route points, at 20 = 2×, at 30 = 4×, and so on.
- 0 falls = full progress-adjusted score.
Progress bands
These multipliers are the main fix for the old too-harsh zero-point system. Hard tries that go high now matter.
| Band | Meaning | Progress multiplier | Example on UIAA 8, 0 falls |
|---|---|---|---|
| Topped | Topped / completed | 100% | 88 |
| 90%+ | 90%+ / very highpoint | 85% | 75 |
| 75–89% | 75–89% / highpoint | 65% | 57 |
| 50–74% | 50–74% / solid go | 40% | 35 |
| 25–49% | 25–49% / worked it | 20% | 18 |
| <25% | <25% / shut down | 0% | 0 |
Actual score = base grade value × progress multiplier × falls factor. So a hard near-send still earns useful points, while a true top remains the gold standard.
Completed-send grade table
Use this when you want to see the topped-route values before partial-progress scaling. Think of it as the full-send spine of the system.
| UIAA grade | 0 falls | 1 fall | 2 falls | 3 falls |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4- | 10 | 7 | 6 | 5 |
| 4 | 13 | 10 | 8 | 6 |
| 4+ | 16 | 12 | 9 | 8 |
| 5- | 20 | 15 | 12 | 10 |
| 5 | 24 | 18 | 14 | 12 |
| 5+ | 29 | 21 | 17 | 14 |
| 6- | 33 | 24 | 19 | 16 |
| 6 | 39 | 29 | 23 | 19 |
| 6+ | 45 | 33 | 26 | 22 |
| 7- | 52 | 39 | 31 | 25 |
| 7 | 59 | 44 | 35 | 29 |
| 7+ | 68 | 50 | 40 | 33 |
| 8- | 77 | 57 | 45 | 38 |
| 8 | 88 | 65 | 52 | 43 |
| 8+ | 101 | 75 | 59 | 49 |
| 9- | 115 | 85 | 68 | 56 |
| 9 | 131 | 97 | 77 | 64 |
| 9+ | 150 | 111 | 88 | 73 |
| 10- | 172 | 127 | 101 | 84 |
| 10 | 196 | 145 | 115 | 96 |
| 10+ | 225 | 167 | 132 | 110 |
| 11- | 257 | 190 | 151 | 125 |
| 11 | 295 | 219 | 174 | 144 |
| 11+ | 338 | 250 | 199 | 165 |
| 12- | 388 | 287 | 228 | 189 |
| 12 | 446 | 330 | 262 | 218 |
This table shows topped / completed attempts. Beyond 3 falls, the same formula keeps chewing the score down.
Endurance bonus
Only topped / completed routes count toward endurance milestones. The average uses that climber’s own topped-route points so far, and the multiplier grows exponentially with each 10-top milestone.
- 10 tops → 1× average topped-route points
- 20 tops → 2× average topped-route points
- 30 tops → 4× average topped-route points
- 40 tops → 8× average topped-route points
So the bonus rewards staying productive across the whole session, not just sniping a single glory route.